mercredi 27 juin 2012

June 27 makarkal lake

From Oshkemen, I head trying to find a lake in the middle of the mountains close to russian, china and Mongolia border . Some people told me I need a border permit to go around and I don't have it . Let's see what will happen.
Narrow road thru mountains during the first 200 km, crossing beautiful forest again with the road full of potholes. Landscape turn green and air temperatures starts to be acceptable as in the city it was over 35 this morning.
I pass several muslism cemeteries , but that time the tombs are made of wood and very coloured. This valley ends at the border with china and Mongolia , it is q d'eau end And i ll have to turn back.
Lunch in a local restaurant with the strange feeling to be observed . As always I just improvise for the menu , and hope,that what will land in the plate will be eatable..
The markakol lake is not really on the map and now I can see that I ve to go thru the mountains on the left. I finally find the narrow track that head south , the lake should be around 60 km from there in the mountains. Very steep ascents, lots of stones , in 8 km I climb from 900 m to 2500 m, absolutely beautiful scenery, just hope this is the right way.
Then the. Track goes down in a Valley 2200 m altitude , lot of water everywhere
Snow very close by. Horses around.
First river to cross which is .. Quite deep, I ve the entire engine under water and just hope it will not stop in the middle of the 200 m wide river . I m alone and shouldhave tough time to get out in case of problem .
This is an absolutely amazing place
I find the next passage to the next valley where the lake should be , 25 km ahead.
Next river to cross, as the first one , no problem, and then comes the 3rd one- that is not going to work- powerful , lot of big rounded stones , and looks deep, too deep.
I play safe ,
Will not go to the lake as it seems there are others several rivers to cross before reaching the lake - and what if the water level raise up ? Theses are glaciers rivers and that can happen.
I meet 4 Kazakhs trying to go there as well with their small Lada Niva .
Well camp together and will have good time. One guy is a teacher and others are farmers . I ll learn a lot from him about the aerea.
The piste I took as been build by Austrian prisoners catched by the russians , none of them survived .. The reason of the road was to give access to Russian troops to the sensitive china- Kazakstan border as it seems that the area was a
disputed place.
I learn as well that in the area ,is the landing place for the baikonur rockets. So militaries have a moving camp to take over the part of rockets that falls down when there is a launch . I will learn as well about Kazakhs and a bit of their traditions. I try the horse milk they offer me , and as well the strange food, mix of lamb with potatoes.
Cool people , ! For 2 of them I m the first foreigner , ever , that they meet!! And that looks and exceptional event for them.
Camp by the river , in a fantastic landscape , with this kind of encounter,
I love that
Fantastic day!

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